Tuesday, November 24, 2020

Broken Toaster/Oven -- Part 3 and last -- Installed the new switch & cleaned. Done...

De-soldered the white wire from the old broken timer.

I'm a little surprised that the power wires are soldered to the timer switch, instead of using connectors.

Used an old Weller soldering gun.  Worked  well.

The old timer switch had some broken plastic inside.
The red arrows point to a plastic "wall" inside the switch that had broken into pieces.
Probably the root cause of the timer switch not working...

New timer soldered in.

This is the correct position/orientation of the switch.

Put the front cover on loosely and attached the switch and the selector.

There's some debris on the bottom of the unit.
Using a putty knife, this area was cleaned before installing what goes over this area.

On the bottom on the unit, installed this piece that holds the removable debris tray in place, with four screws.

The tray holder was installed.  In total, there's fourteen screws that go on the bottom of this unit (!)

After finishing assembling all the pieces (including the back panel), spent some time cleaning the exterior of the toaster.
Also cleaned the glass on the front door.
Took more time to clean the toaster than to install the new timer switch and reassemble the unit...

Toaster back where it normally lives on the kitchen counter.

There's three heating elements on this toaster.
They look kinda like fluorescent tubes but in this case, they get very hot & glow orange when energized (like in the picture below).
The selector switch allows you to turn on the top rack area, the bottom rack area or both areas at the same time.

 

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