The throttle cable angle to the throttle lever is not straight.
When I reassembly it later (after carburetor rebuild), I'll have to fix the angle...
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The idle speed adjusting screw is too far "in."
It's not supposed to be more than 1.5 turns from the point of contact with the throttle lever.
It's way more than 1.5 turns because I increased the idle speed previously.
I thought this might have been the cause of the poor running, but when the idle speed screw was backed out all the way, there was no change in the poor running.
Close up views of the throttle cable connection to the lever.
Idle speed screw and it's contact with the throttle lever.
Throttle cable connection.
Throttle return spring.
Two screws for the choke cable.
The access to the throttle speed screw is hindered by this oil pipe on the top of the valve cover.
Removed it temporarily to have better access to the idle speed adjusting screw with a long screwdriver.
Took a while, but with difficulty, was able to start the engine.
After running the engine for a while then letting it die, looked down the carburetor intake.
After the engine stopped running, fuel was flowing into the throttle.
The volume was pretty high!
I'm not sure but I think the float bowl needle is stuck open allowing fuel to flow...
There's four small bolts holding the air filter base plate onto the top of the carburetor.
And four bolts holding the carburetor to the intake manifold.
One vacuum hose, one fuel like and one PCV hose to the intake.
Removed all the connections and bolts to remove the carburetor.
One of the carburetor mounting nuts is very difficult to access.
Had to remove a short linkage on the carburetor to be able to turn the nut.
Stuffed a rag into the intake manifold hole to keep junk out.
Carb in a plastic container.
Weber 
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