carchaeology: 07/08/22

Friday, July 8, 2022

The bike path and the pier area are more busy than usual.

I'm guessing people are taking more days off...

The fuel "in" line connects to the yellow plug in the picture.

Moved the fuel pump outboard more than in this picture to improve the location and clearance around the fuel in line.

Connected the fuel in-line to the new fuel pump.

Also connected the electrical connectors (bullet).

The pump/bracket has been moved about as far as I can move them in the "outboard" direction as much as I can.

Then tightened down the fasteners.

tidied everything.

Mounted the parking brake cable bracket back in it's location.

Used a zip tie to hold down the wiring so that it doesn't move around.

Same with the two fuel lines.

Tie-wraps are not ideal (hard brackets with rubber holding clamps would be better)

After the fuel pump replacement, the condition did not change.

There's a large brass bolt near the fuel inlet on the carburetor.

Took it out to check if there's anything blocking the fuel inlet area.

Nothing found (not too surprising).

Also, bypassed the fuel pressure regulator/gauge to see if it was causing a restriction.

No change.

The fuel filter did fill up during checking the engine running condition.

Don't know much about carburetors but no obvious vacuum leaks or problems.

The accelerator pump is on the left of the picture.

Whether it's got an issue or not, the car won't idle so I'm guessing that's not the basic issue.

After the engine stalled, looked down the primary barrel's throat.

I saw fuel dripping even with the engine off.

I'm pretty sure that's not right!

I know there's floats & needles involved and perhaps the "needle" is stuck? But why would that cause poor idle?

I think there's usually an idle circuit for the fueling required just for idle. Perhaps that circuit is not right?

Ordered a "rebuild" kit for the carburetor.

Should be here in 10 to 14 days.

Will try rebuilding a carb for the first time since I was 16 (when I did a rebuild on a Toyota Corona 20R engine's carburetor).

A very nice wood rim.

I think the wheel may be vintage aftermarket.

The wheel reminds me of a Jaguar E-type wheel but it's slightly dished (the Jaguar E-type wheel is flat).

Someone modified the steering wheel to fit on the center of a modified MG steering wheel.

The spokes of the MG wheel have been cut off and the hub shape modified to fit the shape of the wheel.

MG steering wheel hub shape modified to fit the wood rim wheel.

The wood rim steering wheel center has been modified and new holes drilled to fit the MG hub...

The wheel center was enlarged so that the sections between the spokes is very thin.

The left hand side is broken but it doesn't affect the function.

It's an interesting adaptation.

I think it might be the right hub for an MG TC.