 |
| Will "adjust" the rear derailleur hanger by bending it away from the wheel. First, remove the rear derailleur. |
 |
| Now there is access to the rear derailleur hanger. |
 |
| But, the gears are too close to the derailleur hanger to get an adjustable wrench on the hanger. |
 |
| "Reverse" the rear wheel & clamp it in place, so that the gears are on the LH side. Now there is space to get an adjustable wrench on the derailleur hanger. |
 |
| Using a large adjustable wrench, gently bend the hanger to be straight. This is somewhat nerve wracking... Don't want to break it! |
 |
After successfully bending the hanger about straight, applied grease on the threads on the hanger and the derailleur to easy reassembly and to reduce the chance for cross-threading.
After installing the rear derailleur, I adjusted the cable so that the rear derailleur shifts well from gear to gear.
There was plenty of clearance between the derailleur and the wheel spokes, now that the hanger is straight! Success... |
 |
| Adjusted the rear brake cable so that the pads are close to the wheel rim, without touching when not applied. After the adjustment, the rear brake is very responsive to the brake lever action. |
I'm thinking of switching out the front derailleur to a more modern one that the Shimano 600. I have some spare front derailleurs; a couple of Dura-Ace, one Ultegra & one 105 (the 105 is new & the others are used). Unfortunately, they have different size diameter clamps than the bike.
Schwinn Paramount = 28.6 mm (1&1/8") diameter tubing
The spares that I have are either 31.8 mm (1&1/4") or 34.9 mm (1&3/8"). They make "adapter" shims. I'll look for one at the bicycle swap meet tomorrow...
 |
| 31.8 mm = 1.25" |
 |
| 34.9 mm = 1.375" |
 |
| Add caption |
 |
| Add caption |
 |
| Also want to find another tire with this color sidewall at the swap meet (chances are slim because it's much darker than the usual "gum-wall" sidewall color...). |
 |
| Bike is made up of mostly 1&1/8" tubing (28.6 mm). |
