Tuesday, August 15, 2017

Replacing the pedals on the Cannondale 6-13 bike... Another ordeal due to corrosion. Also fixed my own mistake on the missing link...

Was able to replace the LH pedal with a new pedal (black).  But the RH one (white) will not come off, due to the threads being corroded in place...


Will not turn (even with an impact air gun...)  Will have to try to drill it out...



Used a rasping bit and a regular drill bit to drill out the old pedal.  Made a lot of shavings!


 Will have to try and use an easy out type of tool to get the shaft to turn...  Hopefully one of these fits...  Didn't work.  Didn't have the right size...  Just had to keep drilling until there was almost nothing left!


Finally drilled out the old pedal shaft (this picture is before I cleaned up the dirt and shavings).  Had to drill it almost to the edge of the threads and a little beyond to get it to come out.  There was enough threads left to install the new pedal without having to run a tap through the threads.  I put some grease on the new pedal threads so that it won't corrode in place so badly, for next time...

New RH side pedal installed.  RH pedal has normal threads.  LH pedal has reversed threads (pretty important to remember!).  I had to repeatedly check to make sure that I was trying to turn the correct direction throughout the whole process (would have been bad if I was trying to tighten it instead of removing it!  Fortunately, I didn't make that mistake...).
I think the self shifting issue that I have, since I replaced the chain, may be caused by using the wrong "missing link" to connect the chain.  I think I might have used an 8/9 speed missing link instead of a 10 speed one.  So it's loose laterally & allows the skipping.  I ordered some 10 speed missing links so I should know in a few days when I get them...
Got and installed the new missing link (KMC brand).  LH one is the new one and the RH one is the one I had previously installed.  The new one is noticeably narrower.  Installed it and went for a test ride around the block and no more skipping/jumping gear.  I just screwed up by installing the wrong missing link to begin with...  Now the bike is ready to ride.

Wednesday, August 9, 2017

BMW wrench and VW 411 (1/87th scale) -- from the Long Beach Motorcycle Swap Meet -- Sunday, July 30



Long Beach Car Swap Meet -- Sunday, August 6, 2017


This is an aftermarket hub (Italian Brand "Dino").  I have a steering wheel with this brand...



Don't know exactly where on a lincoln this is from.  One guess is from the steering wheel center but it's very large (about 5 to 6 inches across)...  Most steering wheel centers are 2 to 3 inches in size.



This Hot Wheel has amazing quality pearl metallic paint!  Shocking quality for a Hot Wheels...


This is a very good model of the car and there was a factory color very close to this light green.  Wish they would make it in my car's light blue color.

French aftermarket wheel (brand is LECARRA).



bought some extra very thin cutoff wheels (for use on a die grinder) for Shelby's Taiko stand project (have to cut the bolts to length)




What's unusual about this small Acura Badge is that it's cast metal... (usually they're plastic)





Honda S2000 engine Valve Cover (with red wrinkle finish paint)

Taiko Practice Stands for Shelby's Berkeley Taiko Group -- making 10 more (after making one previously)